Generally, you can check motorcycle alternator stators while they're installed on the bike, using a quality multimeter. The tests will help you to identify or eliminate the stator as the problem in a charging issue. Since the regulator-rectifier cannot be tested, the only way to identify it as bad is to eliminate every other possibility first, so checking the stator is a necessary step in determining if you have a bad regulator.
Voltage Checks
Since you are having a charging problem, you should perform a few simple checks to eliminate some common causes of low charging-system output. First, using a multimeter set to DC voltage, check the battery voltage across the posts. If you do not have at least 12.5 volts, install a battery charger and charge the battery. Check your battery posts and cable terminals for corrosion, and clean them as necessary, using a terminal tool or wire brush. Check the condition of the cables. Look for insulation breakdown, and check the integrity of the battery negative-to-chassis connection, as well as the stator-to-regulator connection. Make sure the contact points are free of corrosion.
Static Stator Tests
First perform the static stator tests. With the ignition switch in the “Off” position, disconnect the regulator from the stator. Set the multimeter to “Resistance” or “Ohms” on the lowest scale, and insert one probe into one of the stator pin sockets. Touch the other probe to any chassis ground. If the display reads anything other than “Open” or the symbol for infinity, and shows any continuity at all, then you have a grounded stator and must replace it. Insert each probe into a stator socket. You should read around 0.2 to 0.5 ohms. If you show an open circuit with the “Open” or infinity reading or have higher resistance, then the stator is bad and you must replace it. If these tests all produce positive results, then the stator itself is good.
Dynamic Output Tests
The first dynamic test allows you to check the rotor that contains the magnets and spins around the stator. Any problems with the rotor will cause a loss of output. With the engine running and the multimeter set to check AC voltage, connect the probes to the stator sockets. Rev the engine up to 3,000 rpm and read the meter. If it is lower than 60 volts, then you need to replace the rotor. Now, connect the stator to the regulator. Set your multimeter to check amps on the lowest scale. Start the engine and turn on all electrical accessories. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and install the meter probes in series between the battery negative post, and negative cable terminal. If you read below four amps, and all of the previous checks are good, then you need to replace your regulator-rectifier.
Visual Checks
Once you have the stator exposed, you can perform a visual inspection. Look for broken wires, thermal damage, or insulation breakdown on the coils. Inspect the outboard ends of the coils for evidence of contact with the rotor. Replace the stator as necessary. Pay particular attention to the stator for bits of magnet, and inspect the rotor carefully for broken magnets. The magnets usually cannot be replaced individually, so you must replace the rotor as a unit if it is damaged.
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Manufacturer | Honda |
---|---|
Also called | CR |
Predecessor | Honda CR250M |
Engine | 248 cc (15.1 cu in) liquid cooledtwo-strokesingle |
Top speed | 75 mph (121 km/h)[1] |
Power | 48 |
Ignition type | CDI |
Transmission | 5 speed constant mesh, chain drive, manual |
Suspension | Front: Showa, adjustable compression and rebound, Rear: Showa, adjustable preload, compression and rebound. |
Brakes | 240 mm (9.4 in) single disc, front and rear |
Tires | Front: 80/0-21, Rear: 110/90-19 |
Rake, trail | 26.5°, 110 mm (4.3 in) |
Wheelbase | 1,481 mm (58.3 in) |
Seat height | 942 mm (37.1 in) |
Weight | 96.6 kg (213 lb) (dry) |
Fuel capacity | 7.57 l (2.00 US gal) |
The Honda CR250R was a Hondaracingdirt bike. The prototype was built in 1971, but it was not until late 1972 that production of the 1973 model 'out of the box racers' began sale to the general public. The CR250 was produced for nearly 37 years, 2007 being the final year of production.[2]
Chassis: In 1997, Honda produced an industry first, an aluminum chassis for a motocross motorcycle. These 'first gen' frames were thick, rigid, and were a big change from the previous steel frames, where flexibility had been seen as a problem in the early years. The 1997-8 engines were equipped with a new stator, which supplied DC voltage for the new Keihin carburetor with an electronic 'Power Jet' system, in efforts to control lean mixture preignition. Included in the new electrics was a capacitor and a rectifier/regulator. The 1999 model was almost identical but the Power Jet had disappeared. For 2000, the 'second gen' aluminum frame was less rigid, with thinner twin-spars, providing a rigidity decrease and better handling. The Kehin PWK carburetor replaced earlier PJ models. The CDI box limited RPMs to 8000. The 2001 model was nearly identical, with a change to a different CDI box, adding 500 RPM to the redline where two more horsepower lurked. The new Mikuni TMX carburetor proved to be temperamental to weather changes. For 2002, Honda ended the outstanding interchangeability that had existed from 1992~2001, when a completely new engine arrived with a change from cylinder reed induction to an engine case reed induction system and an electronically controlled, cable operated RC valve in place of the centrifigully operated exhaust valve system used since 1992. A TPS (Thottle Position Sensor) was added to the carburetor, powered by a new stator. The ECM would now be able to retard ignition timing to preclude preignition, though there was no ping sensor anywhere. The third & final generation of the CR250 aluminum chassis also made its appearance, which was thinner, with better flex properties. The same engine & chassis, with minor suspension & plastics changes, continued on until production of this 2-stroke stopped in 2007. Although the case reed engine has potentially the best design, it was never developed to its full potential by Honda, as the industry attention rapidly turned to four stroke engine development. Many owners of the final generation of the CR250 felt the need to turn to the aftermarket to bring that engine to its full potential. The 2001 models continue to be savored by lovers of the CR250, considered the best of the best ever produced. Now, a decade after its demise, with the fully developed four strokes proven to be so highly tuned that they tend to fail in massively expensive scattering of pieces, the 2 stroke CR250s are making a resurgence. Parts out of production are being hoarded, and prices skyrocketing. The one year, best of best, 2001 digital ignition systems are selling for more than they were when new. This also a product of go kart racers' adoption of this engine & the 2001 ignition system especially, as a great choice to use as their power source. DPH.[citation needed]
Notes[edit]
- ^Hunt, Phil; McKay, Malcolm; Wilson, Hugo; Robinson, James (2012), Duckworth, Mick (ed.), Motorcycle: The Definitive Visual History, DK Publishing, Penguin Group, p. 232, ISBN978-1-46540-088-8
- ^'Life And Times Of The Honda Cr250R', Dirt Bike Magazine, retrieved October 17, 2012
Honda Offroad Motorcycle Timeline | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Type | 1970s | 1980s | 1990s | 2000s | 2010s | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | ||
CR Series | CR60 | GF5 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
CR80 | 169 | GC4 | GS2 | GBF | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
CR85 | GBF | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
CR125 | 360 | 400 | 444 | 466 | KA3 | KS6 | KZ4 | KSR | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
CR250 | 335 | 357 | 381 | 430 | 467 | KA4 | KS7 | KZ3 | KSK | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
CR450 | KA5 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
CR480 | KA5 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
CR500 | KA5 | ML3 | MAC | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
CRF-R Series | CRF150R | KSE | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
CRF250R | KRN | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
CRF450R | MEB | MEN | MKE | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
CRF-X Series | CRF250X | KSC | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
CRF450X | MEY | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
CRF-F Series | CRF100F | KSJ | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
CRF110F | KYK | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
CRF125F | K28 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
CRF150F | KPT | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
CRF230F | KPS |
Retrieved from 'https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Honda_CR250R&oldid=899517321'
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Honda Cr85 Reviews
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Hi guys,
I have a 2004 cr 85 big wheel but there's a problem with getting a spark. It will sometimes spark but its weak and usually won't start, if it does start it bogs down when you rev it then dies and won't start again. Does any know what this could be?
Thank you
The 10x rule audiobook free download.
I have a 2004 cr 85 big wheel but there's a problem with getting a spark. It will sometimes spark but its weak and usually won't start, if it does start it bogs down when you rev it then dies and won't start again. Does any know what this could be?
Thank you
The 10x rule audiobook free download.
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Honda Cr85 Stator Readings Replacement
Check the coil. The mounts become rusty and dirty as does the plug cap connection to the plug wire. Clean them all and cut 1/4' off the plug wire after you remove the cap by unscrewing it. Then screw the cap back on and see if you have spark.
If not, then you will have to do an ohms test on the coil.
Also check the flywheel and stator for dirt and rust as well.
Paw Paw
If not, then you will have to do an ohms test on the coil.
Also check the flywheel and stator for dirt and rust as well.
Paw Paw
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thanks Paw Paw 271 I checked the coil mounts and cut some of the coil wire off and cleaned the connections but still no luck, i will order a flywheel puller to check the stator and flywheel.
how would i do a ohms test?
thanks
how would i do a ohms test?
thanks
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Stronghold crusader 2 free download. The service manual for your bike will cover this in detail.
Paw Paw
Paw Paw
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8/27/2014 5:52 AM
Edited Date/Time:8/27/2014 5:54 AM
Edited Date/Time:8/27/2014 5:54 AM
Paw Paw, just a general question.. Would you say a CDI unit is either good or bad? In this case, there is SOME spark, so we can assume a bad stator is more than likely the problem here?
I have a project 1993 YZ250 which has no spark. I will be investigating the issue soon. I don't have a service manual at this time..
Ryan
I have a project 1993 YZ250 which has no spark. I will be investigating the issue soon. I don't have a service manual at this time..
Ryan
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Another place to check is the kill button, on Honda's they have been known to fail. Of course a service manual is a good thing to have.
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RyanLester761 wrote:
Paw Paw, just a general question.. Would you say a CDI unit is either good or bad? In this case, there is SOME spark, so we can assume a bad stator is more than likely the problem here?
I have a project 1993 YZ250 which has no spark. I will be investigating the issue soon. I don't have a service manual at this time..
Ryan
I have a project 1993 YZ250 which has no spark. I will be investigating the issue soon. I don't have a service manual at this time..
Ryan
i can speak from experience on this one. son had a ktm 65 that kept fouling plugs. everybody told me CDI box and i wouldnt belive it. i could throw in a new plug and the bike ran strong after a moto it would foul the plug. i checked searched and chased everyting cause i didnt want to spend $90 on a guess. luckily a friend had bought a back up bike that matched ours and he let me swap parts with his and that was problem.
so CDI's can be bad but still work they will just produce a weaker spark.
if you put in a new plug and it runs but wont start after a few laps or 10 then its likely CDI related.
so CDI's can be bad but still work they will just produce a weaker spark.
if you put in a new plug and it runs but wont start after a few laps or 10 then its likely CDI related.
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Good info. Thanks Missing_Muffs.
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thanks for the help guys i went to a shop to ask about the problem and they told me its the stator. im taking the stator to the shop to be rewound. if that dosent work ill try the cdi unit.
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WolfRacer wrote:
thanks for the help guys i went to a shop to ask about the problem and they told me its the stator. Fallout 4 change npc face. im taking the stator to the shop to be rewound. if that dosent work ill try the cdi unit.
Let me know who is rewinding the stator. I need one done on my 01 CR125. I replaced it with an aftermarket one but that bike had sputtering problems and now won't start. I'm thinking the aftermarket stator is bad already. (about 5 rides total.)
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Honda Cr85 Stator Readings Diagram
We get many bikes with weak and or no spark,from your experience it could be either one,or the pulse coil. Find your specs, and even if it tests within parameters, leave it hooked up and put a hair dryer to it.Sometimes they test good when cold, but fail when heat is present. Like X-Wrench said, don't rule out the kill switch.
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Ryanlester761 I'll find out and let you know
Thanks motodad422 I'll give it a go
Thanks motodad422 I'll give it a go
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My stator is being sent to west country windings
Ryanlester761
Ryanlester761
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